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White flavour of life : BOZDAG

 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The Aegean city of İzmir is associated more with blue seas than snow, yet not far away 
the mountain of Bozdağ generously shares the beauty of its snowy peaks with winter 
sports enthusiasts. The ski resort was built two years ago on the mountain, known for its 
fertile alpine pastures, flocks of partridges, and attractive stone houses. Now, as well as 
hikers and nature lovers, the 2159 metre high summit welcomes skiers with their bright 
coloured outfits and cheerful smiles as they speed down the ski slopes through the white 
winter scenery.
 
This hospitable mountain lends its name to the Bozdağ range which stretches for 120 km 
between the Gediz and Küçük Menderes rivers in the Aegean region. It is the highest 
peak in the range, lying just to the east of the road which crosses the range from Ödemiş 
in the south to Salihli in the north. This is a range of great geological interest, composed 
largely of metamorphic rock such as marble and crystal schist. Bozdağ enjoys equal 
mythological fame, which it owes to King Tmolos of Lydia. Tmolos, son of Ares, was out 
hunting one day when he saw the water nymph Arriepe and fell in love with her. Artemis, 
goddess of fertility and the soil, was angered that any mortal, whether king or commoner, 
should have the temerity to fall in love with an immortal, and sent a fierce bull to trample 
him to death. Tmolos's son buried his father on the summit of Bozdağ, which thereafter 
became known as Tmolos. Moving on from myth to history, we find that from the time of .
the Turkish Aydınoğlu Principality, which became part of the Ottoman Empire in 1426, 
the inhabitants of the nearby cities of Manisa and Birgi spent the hot summer months on 
the cool pastures of Bozdağ and in the mountain village of Elma Bağı (formerly Tekke), 
which was also a halting place for caravans and travellers crossing the mountains.
 
Sultan Mehmed II (1451-1481), conqueror of Istanbul, who as crown prince governed 
Manisa, is said to have spent his summers on Bozdağ, where he continued to take 
lessons from his teacher Molla Gürani as well as less serious pursuits. Birgi, once 
capital of the Aydınoğulları Principality, lies south of Bozdağ, and is a fascinating town 
with many early Turkish monuments and traditional houses. If you have time after visiting 
Birgi, you can explore the picturesque villages of the area along the winding mountain 
roads on your way to Bozdağ, 17 km away. As you drive along you may see a shepherd 
following his flocks, and pass hikers with backpacks out to enjoy the scenery and fresh 
mountain air. Around almost every bend you catch sight of Bozdağ's summit with its
glistening white cap of snow and scarf of fluffy clouds. The large village of Bozdağ, 
whose population is 3200, is the hub of this agricultural area where the principal crops 
are potatoes, apples, cherries and sour cherries, and flocks of sheep and goats produce 
milk used to make delicious local cheese. Walnuts and chestnuts are the gift of the 
mountain, as are the wild flowers that lend fragrance to the superb honey. In the shops 
here you can also find thyme, senna and many other herbs gathered in the meadows. If 
you stop here for a meal, try the wonderful pide - thin bread spread with various fillings 
such as cheese, and baked in an oven, and the speciality known as katmer, a kind of 
layered pastry.
 
There is a small partridge and pheasant breeding farm in the village, and the young 
birds are released into the wild every spring. Ancient planes, chestnuts, ashes, willows 
and poplars surround the village. One of the prettiest spots in the vicinity is Mermeroluk, 
a favourite picnic place and a base for university mountaineering club expeditions. The 
ski resort at Büyük Çavdar is just 7 km east of here, and colourfully dressed skiers can 
be discerned in the distance. Two hotels and bungalows provide accommodation at the 
resort, which lies on the northeast flank of the mountain at a height of 1600 m. There are 
two ski lifts and one chair lift, the latter carrying passengers up the ridge to a height of 
2000 metres, where there are two ski slopes, one 2300 and the other 2500 metres long. 
For less experienced skiers there are also two shorter slopes, 800 and 1000 metres in 
length respectively. In November, as soon as the temperature drops below -3 degree 
Centigrade, the pistes are made ready with artificial snow. When you want a break from 
skiing there is a cafeteria selling a wide range of drinks and snacks.
 
Even if you are not intending to ski, it is fun to take the chair lift to just below the summit, 
and after a glass of hot tea in the summit café almost buried in the snow, take a short 
walk along the ridge. Listening to the crunching of the snow beneath your feet and 
breathing the cold bracing air of the summit, you will experience the white flavour of life. 
The sights of Bozdağ do not end here. Before you leave you should visit the mountain 
pasture known as Subatan Yayla and the lake of Gölcük. Subatan is a plateau with a 
wavy surface created by the broad shallow valleys eroded by time which cross it. It takes 
its name from a sink hole into which the numerous tiny streams plunge underground. 
Potato fields and apple orchards cover this fertile plateau.
Lake Gölcük is situated at 1049 metres and has an area of 1.5 square kilometres. In 
summer people come here to picnic under the shade of the pine trees and enjoy the 
idyllic view in the cool breeze. In winter you will find the lake deserted but the silent white 
and scape is equally beautiful and unforgettable.
As well as skiing, mountaineering, and trekking, cycling is another sport which attracts 
many people to Bozdağ throughout the year. This hospitable mountain towering over an 
ancient and lovely region has much to tell if you lend it your ear.
  
 
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